Kola Peninsula: A Trip To The "European Siberia" - Alternative View

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Kola Peninsula: A Trip To The "European Siberia" - Alternative View
Kola Peninsula: A Trip To The "European Siberia" - Alternative View

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The Kola Peninsula is sometimes called "European Siberia". Here, on a relatively small territory (about the size of three Moscow regions), there is almost everything with which we associate huge spaces beyond the Ural ridge.

Landscape and natural areas

Along the Tersk coast of the White Sea, taiga stretches several tens of kilometers into the interior of the peninsula. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, which carries the remnants of its heat into the waters of the Barents Sea, the evergreen forest here in some places "gets" to such northern latitudes, where in other parts of the world only moss grows. The center of the peninsula is mainly occupied by forest-tundra. Thousands of lakes, rivers and streams glisten here and there between hills, marshes and swampy fields. As scientists have calculated, if you stretch all the Kola rivers and streams into one tape, you can wrap the Earth with it more than 20 times.

There are mountains in the center of the peninsula - the Khibiny ones. Not the highest even by European standards (the highest point is Mount Yudichvumchorr - 1200 meters above sea level), but extremely picturesque.

In the north of the peninsula, taiga and forest-tundra are replaced by the very end of the world, which lovers and poets so often remember. Polar tundra. There are only mosses, boulders, and the noise of the Barents Sea. In general, for those who want to spend their holidays in nature, practically untouched by anthropogenic changes, there is a complete variety of landscapes.

Bait for the English lords

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Perhaps, most often fishing enthusiasts go to the Kola Peninsula. The peninsula is unique in that most of the species living in its water bodies belong to the salmon family: trout, brown trout, grayling, whitefish, char, char.

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Well, and, of course, the queen of the Kola waters - salmon. By the way, the Norwegians, who before the history of the sanctions were the main suppliers of red fish to Russian counters, and who since the beginning of the 90s turned out to be very concerned about saving the nature of the Murmansk region, did not save their natural salmon herds. Back at the beginning of the 20th century, “real salmon”, which takes several years to fatten up the vastness of the world's oceans, and then returns thousands of miles to its native river to give offspring, such a salmon in Norway was transferred.

It is not surprising, therefore, that amateurs and professionals from all over Russia and Europe come to Russia to search for special impressions from catching this powerful, beautiful and of course delicious fish. There are bases on the Ponoi River, which were chosen by the English lords, and world stars also come here. For example, on the Varzuga River Eric Clapton tortured fishing happiness. More than once, the president and some members of the Russian government were seen on the Kola rivers with spinning rods.

However, for mere mortals, fishing for salmon is a relatively affordable pleasure. The license to catch one "royal fish" is one thousand rubles. However, recently visiting tourists are increasingly being offered “catch and release” licenses. That is, in this case, you will not be able to enjoy the taste of the captured trophy.

Where to fish?

There are more chances to catch salmon in the rivers of the southern part of the Kola Peninsula. An average trophy here can pull 3-4 kilograms. In the east and north of the Murmansk region, salmon is found less often. But if you are lucky, you can experience the fishing happiness of fighting with 13-17 kg salmon. Moreover, the speed of the river flow is added to the strength of the fish itself (as a rule, salmon is caught on the spoon on the rifts). Therefore, single combat with the "queen of the river" sometimes lasts several hours.

Those who go fishing for the first time with a salmon should bear in mind that fishing luck, in this case, is a particularly unpredictable thing. Even experienced spinning and fly fishermen can unsuccessfully fish for the most catchy rifts for days. And amateur beginners, with luck, can "pay off" 3-4 licenses for salmon in an hour.

Exclusive

In recent years, local travel agencies increasingly offer "exclusive conditions" for wealthy fishermen.

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Groups of tourists are thrown by helicopters and all-terrain vehicles into remote places, far from roads and settlements. This is due to the fact that due to the influx of fishing lovers, it is more and more difficult to catch salmon near inhabited places. In addition to salmon rivers, there are a lot of reservoirs on the Kola Peninsula where you can catch fish that is not as large as salmon, but no less tasty and very beautiful fish - brown trout.

Winter fishing in the Murmansk region is less attractive for fastidious anglers from other regions of Russia. Lake char, which takes well in winter, rarely exceeds 700-800 grams in weight. True, on the large lakes of the peninsula - Imandre, Lovozero, Kolozero - burbot bite well in the most severe winter months. There are specimens of 7-8 and more kilograms. In fact, until recently, among local fishermen, burbot was considered a "trash" fish. Although its taste is not much inferior to sea cod.

Khibiny

The above-mentioned Khibiny is the center of ski tourism on the Kola. The capital of Khibiny is a small town of Kirovsk, which was previously called Khibinogorsk.

It is here that the main hotels and hotels for fans of "winter extreme" are concentrated. As already mentioned, the Khibiny mountains are not high, so either beginners or those who have to spend their holidays in the "economy" style come here. The main advantage of Kirovsk in front of the famous ski resorts is inexpensive prices combined with the friendliness of the northerners and quite acceptable service. In addition, Kirovsk is located near the airport and half an hour's drive from the railway station. Equipped ski slopes are located within the city limits, so the time from hotels to them rarely takes more than half an hour.

In recent years, freeride is gaining more and more popularity - descent along pristine mountain slopes. In principle, the conditions for him are suitable here, since the winters on the Kola Peninsula are usually quite snowy. But in this case, you cannot do without "special services". It is necessary to negotiate with the local representatives of the tourist business about the transfer by snowmobiles to the remote corners of the Khibiny. In this case, it is imperative to register at the local center of the Ministry of Emergencies and find out the degree of avalanche danger. Although the Khibiny is not high, the mountains always remain mountains.

Season

Those skiers who have not yet been to the Kola Peninsula should remember that in November - January the Polar Night begins here. The darkness gives way to gray twilight only for two or three hours a day. True, it is at this time that the chances of seeing the mesmerizing northern lights are high. But opportunities for skiing and snowboarding are severely limited. The best time for skiers on Kola is the end of February - April. At this time, there is already a lot of sun and still a lot of snow in the mountains.

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Petrophiles and botanists

In summer, the Khibiny is a favorite place for novice climbers and petrophiles who like to collect rare beautiful stones. Almost all the minerals found on the planet are concentrated here in a small space. That is why, at the foot of the Khibiny Mountains, in the town of Apatity, the Stone Flower festival has been held more than once, which attracts stone carvers from all over Russia and beyond.

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Kirovsk is also notable for the world's northernmost Botanical Garden. It was founded in the 30s of the 20th century, when industrial mining of apatite began in the Khibiny. During the Great Patriotic War, it was here that a unique technology for the production of sugar from moss was developed. In addition, many medicines were produced from local plants for scurvy patients and wounded Soviet soldiers. Now, in the harsh polar conditions, scientists have managed to acclimatize thousands of plant species from all over the planet.

Underwater kingdom

Other types of tourism in the Murmansk region are in their infancy. Until recently, the only place on the Kola Peninsula where diving enthusiasts liked to come was the Kandalaksha Bay on the Tersk coast. The water here in the summer months warms up to 14-15 degrees. By northern standards - quite a resort temperature. As many experienced divers note, the underwater world of the White Sea is much more beautiful and interesting than, say, the Black Sea. Several years ago, a base was opened for lovers of underwater beauty on the shores of the Barents Sea in the village of Teriberka. The underwater world of this freezing sea is interesting for its sheer walls, anemones, seals, whales, belugas, northern dolphins, salmon, and crabs. And also all kinds of, as divers put it, "iron" - scattering of shell casings, shells and sunken ships.

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Ethno tourism

Ethnic tourism on the Kola Peninsula is mainly concentrated in the village of Lovozero and its environs. Representatives of a small but very interesting people live here - the Sami. In the old days they were called Lapps, and the western part of the Murmansk region is still considered Russian Lapland. Those who spend a few hours to get from the regional center to the village of Lovozero will be able to taste exotic dishes in the Sami chum, observe and even participate in the ancient Sami rituals. Well, and of course, ride with the breeze on sledges pulled by the most natural reindeer.

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