The harsh beauty of the Mansky pillars
The Kuturchinsky pillars, or the Mansky, as tourists called them, are much less known than the Krasnoyarsk Pillars. Compared to the rocks of the regional center, the stone megaliths of the Kuturchinsky Belogorie are much lower - their height reaches a maximum of 50 meters. Meanwhile, these picturesque places have long been a place of pilgrimage for tourists - lovers of untouched nature, and the bizarre forms of straight plumb rock outcrops amaze the imagination. Stone remnants resembling the shapes of animals, ships, people or destroyed ancient temples are located just 200 kilometers from the regional center. By the way, it is believed that these Pillars are not of natural origin, but are the remains of an ancient civilization. Painfully many rocks look like the destroyed walls of unknown fortresses. And the principle of their addition resembles other walls,found in different parts of the world.
The Stone Town is spread over the Kuturchinsky Belogorie - a mountain ridge of the Eastern Sayan, between the Mana River and its right tributary Mina. It is famous for its mountain ranges (Mount Alat, 1765 meters), plateau peaks and numerous stone outliers, chaotically scattered both in the lower reaches of Mana and along the top of the ridge.
- They are called Mansky pillars by people who go to rafting on the Mansky threshold. This place is quite popular for water tourists, - tells "MK" amateur tourist Andrey Borus. - And since the Mansky Pillars are already visible from the river, people, as a rule, are not lazy and go to the ascent to see them with pleasure. And there are a great many rocks! Another contingent of people walks to the pillars that are located above the Manskoye threshold - on the plateau. It is about 1700 meters above sea level. There are also a lot of outlier rocks. If the lower ones are mostly hidden in the forest, but the upper rocks, due to the absence of a forest, are, as it were, “naked”, not hiding their majesty and grandeur.
Well-trodden route
There are several ways to get to these places. First: take bus No. 572 Krasnoyarsk-Mina to the village of Khabaidak. From there you need to walk about 20 kilometers to the Bolshoi Mansky threshold. From this place the ascent to the Mansky Pillars begins. Second: take the Krasnoyarsk - Abakan train and after 5 hours get off at the Mana station, and then also about 20 kilometers along the river to the same point - the threshold. You can also get there by train, but it runs only on weekends.
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However, you can get to the village of Khabaidak by private car. You can leave your transport in the forest or ask local residents for help. Usually people do not refuse and are allowed to leave the car in their yard for a couple of days by agreement.
It is better to go on foot along the forest road, and not tempt fate in your SUV (if you have one). As they say, the steeper the car, the farther to run after the tractor. And do not be tempted by the well-worn roads leading towards Mana - these roads will lead you to the area of Mount Kantarka, which is not necessary at all.
It is required at first to keep the direction, as it were, a little parallel to the Mana flow. In this case, you can walk both through a birch forest and along abandoned forest roads. By the way, in recent years, the career of gold miners, which are stretching in the right direction, have served as a benchmark.
Sooner or later, all roads merge into one and lead you to the Angul stream. Many tourists make their first rest here. And the first rocky outliers were located nearby, literally 500 meters from the stream. Although, to make a break or not, you decide. Better, having crossed the stream, go further, to the top of the Kuturchinsky Belogorie (Mansky Pillars).
You will have to climb the plateau uphill - it is about 800 meters up. For example: the Krasnoyarsk Pillars have to climb about 400 meters. Technically, the way up is not difficult and for a physically prepared person it will not be difficult. However, closer to the top (approximately at an altitude of 1300 meters), a kurumnik begins. These small lumpy suitcases will have to go up to an altitude of 1500 meters. And be careful, as many of them are overgrown with lichen and moss.
Before the ascent, many experienced tourists recommend making a break and refreshment: you cannot find water near the rocks. Needless to say, it is problematic to find it on the barrow, despite the fact that you will all the time hear the murmur of a stream that flows somewhere among the huge stones. And it is much easier to find water on the border of the forest and the barrow. In addition, in these places in the summer there are always lingonberries, wild raspberries, not to mention currants for tea.
So, after lunch and rest, overcoming the obstacle from the barn, you will find yourself at the foot of the amazing rocks. And what other reward awaits those who climbed? A majestic view of the endless taiga, the sources of the Mana River and bizarre outliers scattered across the plateau. If there is a supply of water, then you can wander here for a long time, inspect and imagine how old they are and how long they will stay here. And try to solve the riddle of what secrets these stone idols have kept since ancient times. What was there in ancient times?
- The pillars in those parts are diverse. There are rocks made of narrow pancakes, and there are rocks made of monoliths. For me, these are the most remarkable pillars on the plateau. Their names are tourist: Ship (aka Kit), Titanic, Kid and Carlson (or Sphinx), who sees what. There is an opinion that the Mansky Pillars are the remains of ancient civilizations. I myself have personally seen some striking rocks and moments when it seemed that these boulders were skillfully built by someone. In general, there was an impression of the artificiality of these rocks. This is possible, but personally I do not particularly support these rumors. But I really like to be in those places: no hard-to-climb pointed peaks, mushrooms, berries. You come there and relax, - Andrey Borus shares his impressions.
In general, the ascent to the plateau will take you at least three hours. Descent - about two. Consider this time when planning your rock climb. The most convenient months are June, July, August, September. Although some tourists recommend walking in June, since there is no water on the plateau, and you can use the snow that has not yet melted. However, the best season is early autumn. At this time, ticks are gone, and the sun is still hot, and the views of the multi-colored taiga are fascinating. However, there are lovers of ski crossings.
Things to do?
Recently, these regions have become popular with tourists. And this is not at all surprising. After all, everyone can find something to their liking here, and here is a real paradise for lovers of photo tours. That only is the Mansky threshold, which is constantly conquered by extreme lovers of water rafting.
And the fishermen will find something to do: an excellent catch of grayling is guaranteed. For hikers, this is also an ideal place, rich not only in a variety of routes, but, of course, in numerous rocks that leave no one indifferent.
- Some Kuturchinsky pillars (Mansky) are suitable for climbing. I have friends who are already working on climbing routes there. But since the place is still far from the city, it may not be very convenient to lug equipment. Nevertheless, rock climbing is already practiced there, - continues Andrey.
He also added that in spring, very beautiful flowers bloom in these places - the upper plateau is literally dotted with various and rare plants, among which you can find a soft pink rhododendron.
So, warm spring days ahead, long May weekends - it's time to go to the top of the Kuturchinsky Belogorie and come up with your own names for the stone giants. Just remember to bring an experienced guide with you. The path is not short, and it is not known where the endless paths of Kuturchin can lead.
Oleg Vetrov