Among the numerous lakes and dense forests of central Karelia, the mysterious mountain Vottovaara is lost. Due to its remoteness, it is not included in the list of popular tourist routes, but every year there are more and more people wishing to visit this unique place.
Last year we decided to visit it too.
Of course, the most optimal way from St. Petersburg lies there through "Murmanka", but we are not looking for easy ways, so we drove along "Sortavala" - stopping on the way to Ruskeala. It is difficult to count how many times I have been to the marble quarry - I wanted to show this wonderful place to my beloved daughter.
Double-row panorama from 8 vertical frames.
After turning to Suojärvi, the asphalt ran out, which meant that almost half of the way would have to go on a dirt road. Toivola, Lakhkolampi, Porosozero - the road is getting worse … After long hours of travel, and here it is - the cherished sign of "Gimola". The name of this village is probably known to all people who have visited Vottovaara.
Promotional video:
This is a base camp for tourists staying in this Karelian wilderness. Further on the way to the mountain there will be no settlements, and we still have to go 15 kilometers to the mountain, and another 20 on the way to its top. It was there, next to the lake in the northern parking lot at the northern trail, that it was planned to set up a camp. Having driven a couple of kilometers from the village, the dirt road ends and a forest road begins. Branches shuffle through the car, stones fly out from under the wheels, and in some puddles it’s scary to drive into some puddles - the “real” road begins !!!
… The previous 600 kilometers don't count:)
Double-row panorama from 8 vertical frames.
This is how one of the most harmless and high-speed sections of the road looks like, which the local four-wheel drive lawn overcomes at a speed of 40 kilometers per hour, throwing columns of water from under the wheels. But we are here for the first time, so we have to go slowly and explore the ford at almost every such spill. The places, of course, are extremely picturesque, but I don't want to get stuck here for a long time …
The road is dragging on and it seems that we are about to see the highest point of the West Karelian Upland, which is Vottovaara. But in front there is only endless taiga, diluted with swamps.
Behind another wooden bridge, at last, an identification mark appeared in the form of car numbers nailed to a tree and ribbons tied to branches. This means that we are at the foot of a mountain that is not even visible.
They did not depart from tradition. No, the license plates, of course, were not nailed, but a few wet (unused) napkins were tied to the branches:)
The main, relatively knurled road skirted the mountain on the right, but we like to turn left, so we tested not the beaten track.
It's been a long time since I picked mushrooms like that … Some specimens could be cut without leaving the car, simply by opening the door. Some stood right on the road, others on the side of the road, and whole families were hiding in the bushes.
In general, we collected as much as we could collect, we did not pay attention to the rest, otherwise we would simply never have reached … (By the way, the mushrooms later turned out to be a good soup on the fire).
Although, we didn’t get there … At least to the northern parking lot. But that was not the goal. I already had a hard time understanding how we managed to overcome the last 30 kilometers. Particularly impressive were the steep ascents and descents with huge boulders. In the last swamp, I simply did not dare to climb. Not everyone will climb there and on a prepared machine. Those who passed there drove in pairs.
As a result, we found a small clearing, where we set up a tent.
The weather was promised clear, sunny, warm. She was like that, but somewhere above the clouds …
We were in dense fog, which in fact was low cloudiness. The height, after all, is almost 400 meters.
Before it is too late, I decided to take a walk to the top of Vottovarra to look around. Somewhere in my heart I was hoping that the clouds would part for a while, but no … Not on this day.
At the top, the clouds were even denser and the visibility was no more than 50 meters.
Although I have been engaged in orienteering for more than 7 years, in such conditions it is not difficult to get lost without a normal map and compass. I had to turn on the navigator on my phone, and at 11 o'clock in the evening I ran to look for a trail and go down the mountain until it got dark and the battery was completely dead.
I could not see the sights of the mountain, but I felt the extraordinary mystical atmosphere of Vottovaara perfectly. And now I am even glad that I managed to capture just such a state of nature in such a unique place. For those who did not watch my last year's slideshow, I post it again:
Vottovaara is 417 meters high and is famous for its futuristic landscapes with bizarre stones, rocks and dead trees.
Many consider it one of the most mystical places in Russia, a place of power. Someone even calls it a mysterious ancient civilization - Hyperborea.
At its top, on an area of about six square kilometers, there are about 1,600 stones (seids), laid in some mysterious order, a large number of megaliths, sanctuaries, altars, a stone pool and a staircase to the sky of 13 steps.
Vottovaara is also called the Karelian "Stonehead".
The opinions of scientists about the origin of this natural monument were divided. Some believe that this is an ancient cult complex, others believe that these are traces of glaciers and earthquakes.
Superstitious people consider Vottovaara a place of concentration of evil forces and a bridge to another world. According to psychics, this place has high energy.
I, of course, do not know what glacier can carve steps to the stones, split the rocks perfectly evenly, and what earthquake can put a huge boulder (seid) on several small stones … But in any case, this place is amazing and bewitching …
The next day the clouds did not recede. We decided to move our camp lower, settling at the foot of the mountain on the shore of the lake with crystal clear turquoise water of Metsavelijärvi.
Despite the fact that the water was not very warm, I could not help but swim in it.
We tried to fish, but there were no fish in the lake.
Towards evening it was decided to try to climb the top of Vottovaara again. The clouds did not become less and there was no more hope for a miracle. But on the way to the top, somewhere from behind the trees, the sun periodically peeped through. I had to hurry.
A miracle happened and at some point the clouds parted. Well, how can you not believe in the magic of the mountain here?
From the top, magnificent views opened up for tens of kilometers around. There was an opportunity to see the stone sights.
This is Lake "Eye" in the center of the amphitheater.
Geologists drilled its bottom and took soil samples. The analysis showed the presence of a thick layer of phosphorus formed within a limited period of time. Perhaps these are traces of ancient sacrifices.
The pool has a regular rectangular shape, behind which large stones are located on inclined slabs.
Near the huge boulder "The Head of Old Ukko" (there he is! Peeping between the pine trees with a stern look:) a large group of tourists gathered, who sat huddled against the stone for at least an hour. It's strange, why didn't I see anyone in the thick fog late last night? Probably, people simply did not dare to climb the mountain in the fog …
The altar, one of the main requisites of the cult complex, grew from somewhere in the middle of a swamp.
Unfortunately, I didn't manage to get to the stairs, because in a few moments another "foggy cloud" flew into the mountain. I had to go downstairs.
One of the tourists showed me several places where, according to him, he feels a powerful release of energy, but there was no time to feel it himself.
Vottovaara is covered with many legends and rumors. Someone here saw UFOs, ghosts, heard strange sounds. Someone's watches stopped, electronic equipment malfunctioned, health problems arose.
I didn’t notice anything like that, but a visit to this place will definitely be remembered for a long time, for its unique atmosphere and extraordinary landscapes. I hope I will return there again …
Ahead of us was a long road to St. Petersburg, the main task of which was to reach the gas station in Suojärvi:)
Still, primers and off-road conditions significantly adjust fuel consumption upwards.
Petr Kosykh