Palmanova is a city and commune of the same name in northeastern Italy, not far from the border with Slovenia. It is located 20 km from Udine, 28 km from Gorizia and 55 km from Trieste, near the junction of the A23 and A4 motorways. Palmanova became famous for its fortress in the shape of a nine-pointed star, which later many military architects tried to imitate.
The territorial position of Friuli after the defeat at Gradisca (1511) was characterized by a peculiar border structure known as the "leopard skin". It was in such a way that the stronghold of the Venetian power became part of the possessions of the Austrian archduchy, and the imperial possessions were gradually introduced into the Venetian territories. The desire to strengthen the defenses against the Turks and Austrians required the creation of a powerful fortress in the center of the Friulian plain.
On October 7, 1593, the government of the Venetian Republic ordered the founding of a revolutionary new type of settlement, which became Palmanova. The beginning of construction was connected to the anniversary of the victory of European forces over the Turks at the Battle of Lepanto. In addition, on the same day, the Day of St. Justina is celebrated - the Roman martyr, who was chosen as the patroness of Palmanova.
Architect Vincenzo Scamozzi designed the tiny fortress town in the shape of a star with nine rays, according to the latest military achievements of the 16th century. Fortifications were built in two lines, and ramparts were poured between the highest points of the star's rays so that neighboring bastions could defend each other. That is why the length of the edge of each beam exactly corresponds to the firing range of medieval guns. The city, surrounded by a deep moat, could only be entered through one of three guarded gates. Conceived as a perfect war machine, the city was equipped with the entire range of weapons then available.
Old map of Palmanova, created around 1600.
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A group of Venetian nobles was in charge of the construction, led by Marcantonio Barbaro, who became the first head of the city, led by Marcantonio Martinego, and Giulio Savornyan acted as a consultant.
Since 1797, the fortress has alternately belonged to the French and the Austrians. The external, third, line of fortifications was completed during Napoleonic rule. Then, from 1815 to 1866, the city belonged to Austria, having survived a major uprising of the townspeople in 1848, and only after these fifty years passed to Italy along with Venice and western Friuli.
During the First World War, the city served as a base for troops and equipment and was burned by the Italians during the retreat. But during the Second World War, Archpriest Giuseppe Merlino was able to convince the Germans not to destroy the fortress.
In 1960, Palmanova was declared a national monument by decree of the President of the Republic.
Professor Edward Wallace Muir Jr. said of Palmanova: “Theorists have devised many ideal cities that looked intriguing on paper but were not particularly successful as a residential community. On the northeastern border of their continental empire in 1593, the Venetians began building the finest example of a Renaissance city, Palmanova, a walled city designed to defend against attacks in Bosnia. Built in accordance with social and military requirements, the city was supposed to be populated by merchants, artisans and farmers.
However, despite the favorable conditions and the convenient location of the city, no one dared to move to it. In 1622, Venice was forced to offer free housing in Palmanova and provision for pardoned criminals who agreed to settle in the city. Thus began the forced settlement of this magnificently planned place, which is essentially empty to this day, except for the curious students visiting the cities of the Renaissance, and the bored soldiers who are still stationed there to guard the Italian border."
Indeed, the population of Palmanov is just over 5,000. They are mainly engaged in the tourism sector, maintaining the ancient appearance of the city.
Access to the city, both in the old days and today, is through three monumental gates: the north-western gate of Udine, the north-eastern gate of Cividale and the southern gate of Aquileia.
The Aquileia or Marittima gates were built first (in 1598) and for some time remained the only ones. They were originally decorated with the stone lion of St. Mark, which was destroyed by the French in 1797. Below are the emblems of the first rulers and treasurers of the city. Inside the gate, there are guard rooms and municipal offices.
South gate of the city.
The Udine Gate was built at the same time as the Cividale Gate in 1605 and included two large wheels that raised the fortress bridge. The outer façade depicts the lion of St. Mark lying on two small foundations. The inner space of the gate includes fireplace rooms and other rooms intended for guards and medical workers.
The Cividale gate looks a little simpler. On the facade, a stucco molding depicting the reclining lion of St. Mark rises above the cornerstone of the city. In the courtyard there are premises intended for guards and sentries, and now houses the Military History Museum.
The main square of Palmanove - Piazza Grande - is located in the very center of the star of the city, it is a regular hexagonal space, six radial streets and all the main buildings of both civil and military use: the governor's palace, the cathedral, the house of the parish priest, the pawnshop, the military hospital, etc. In the center of the square there is a high stele on a foundation made of Istrian stone - the symbol of the fortress. Along the perimeter of the square, there are statues of representatives of the Venetian nobility who ruled the city during the Venetian Empire.
The Duomo di Palmanova is located opposite Palmanova City Hall. The project was created in 1603 and construction began in the same year, which was completed in 1636. The building inspection was headed by Girolamo Capello, but the exact name of the architect is unknown. Perhaps it was Baldassare Longena and Vincenzo Scamozzi, who also owns the project of the city itself. This building became the best example of Venetian architecture in Friuli; later, the altar of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary by Pompeo Randi was located in its interior space. The cathedral was not ordained until 1777, when it was incorporated into the Archbishopric of Udine.
The bell tower of the cathedral, erected in 1776, has a special shortened shape in order to prevent the enemy from determining the location of the cathedral during an attack. In the niches of the façade there are statues of St. Justina of Padua - one of the patron saints of Padua, Mark and Christ the Redeemer. The façade is made of Istrian stone and was restored in 2000.
The Palmanova Municipal History Museum serves as the starting point for all sightseeing tours. The exhibits here are arranged in chronological order and tell about four periods of the city's history: Venetian, Napoleonic, Austrian and Italian. In the museum you can get acquainted with the general complex of the city structure and the system of fortifications.
The Military History Museum is located in the dungeon of the Cividale Gate and showcases uniforms, documents, and memorabilia associated with the city's garrison from 1593 until the end of World War II. There are also many reproductions of the city dating back to different periods of its development.
Of course, today Palmanova does not fulfill the goals for which it was built. Most of the barracks are abandoned, the modest funds of the city budget are insufficient for their maintenance. Therefore, the authorities decided to sell the city buildings to private individuals who are carrying out their reconstruction and opening them up to tourist groups. Every year the city receives more and more tourists, focusing on the unique layout of the fortress (there are 8 cities of this type in Europe) and holding theatrical cultural and historical events.