Down with guile! Monuments of antiquity inherited by large European cities since the time of the Roman Empire or the Middle Ages, today often look like vintage accessories with which a modern fashionista decided to complement her image, and they do not set the general atmosphere of the city at all. Edinburgh is absolutely unique in this respect.
Here you read the legends of antiquity deeply, without looking closely at the tablets on the walls of the palaces. The city, with its stone streets connected by almost vertical staircases, seems to be a reliable setting for Tim Burton's Gothic films, and brown houses with pipes and black cabs that resemble carriages in their appearance further enhance the illusion that you are in the past. Only modern clothes of local residents cause dissonance. You look at them and think: a wide-brimmed hat and an Inverness tweed melton cloak would look much more appropriate here.
Behind a stone wall
The reason Edinburgh has managed to maintain its historical authenticity is trivial. The plan for the renovation of the capital of Scotland was adopted in 1768. That is why the houses in the new part of the city do not differ too much from the houses of the old part. Even a relatively "fresh" by local standards, the memorial on Calton Hill, built in the 19th century in memory of the Scottish soldiers who died in the Napoleonic wars, seems, if not a native, then a cousin of Edinburgh Castle, erected on Castle Hill by King David I in the distant 12th century …
It is worth starting your acquaintance with the city just by visiting the impregnable stronghold, deservedly nicknamed "the key to Scotland". To fully appreciate the reliability of the fortification, you need to approach it not along the Royal Mile, but slightly from the side. This is where the claims of historians to films in which medieval cities and castles are surrounded by a single fortress wall become clear! Edinburgh Castle was erected on a steep cliff, surrounded by a multi-level belt of defensive walls and equipped with a complex system of double gates - in a word, such a fortress cannot be taken by a banal assault.
EDINBURGHE CASTLE IS ESTABLISHED ON A STEERING ROCK.
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By the way, the fortification has not completely lost its functions even today. Inside the castle are the jewels of the Scottish crown, as well as the Stone of Destiny, which was used for coronations, and although the treasury where tourists are allowed is equipped with alarms, the guides joke that the ancient castle walls are many times better protection from robbers than any achievements of scientific and technological progress.
Palace coup
They say that in the 15th century, King James IV moved the royal court from the fortified castle to the Holyrood palace for reasons of comfort: the wind is blowing very strongly at the top of the mountain, so it is unpleasant to live there. The path from the castle to the palace is the famous Royal Mile - the main street of Edinburgh. The Holyrood Palace itself, though old, is residential: Queen Elizabeth II stays there during her annual trips to Scotland. By the way, at the end of the 19th century, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert loved to visit here. The royal couple was fond of drawing, and therefore, sitting by the window, painted sketches from the ruins of Holyrood Abbey located near the palace: many centuries ago, its roof collapsed, but the Gothic ruins were preserved out of love for beauty.
THE MEMORIAL ON KALTON HILL IS BUILT IN MEMORY OF THE SCOTTISH SOLDIERS DIED IN THE NAPOLEON WARS.
However, the most famous person who lived in Holyrood is Maria Stuart, whose rooms have survived to this day in an unchanged form. All guests of the palace must be told the story of David Riccio, the court musician and the Queen's secretary. His too frequent presence in the bedroom of Mary Stuart could not please the Scottish lords: on March 9, 1566, they broke into the queen's chambers and inflicted fifty-seven stab wounds to the musician. Today, the site of Riccio's murder is marked with a plaque, and a voice in the audio guide encourages guests to take a closer look in order to distinguish spots of dried blood on the floor. To be honest, I did not see anything, which is not surprising: before the arrival of Elizabeth II, the ministers of Holyrood carry out general cleaning in all the halls of the palace.
Scary Tales
Think Holyrood is a creepy place? I hasten to reassure you. Edinburgh is proud of the stories in the style of gothic horror films, because, according to the guides, the capital of Scotland is home to a record number of ghosts per square kilometer.
The place of their mass accumulation is the Mary King underground dead end. In the past it was an ordinary street, but in the 18th century it was walled up and it was buried underground. The entrance is located near the Gothic Cathedral of St. Egidius. Dead End Mary King is an analogue of gloomy catacombs with once residential buildings. By the way, many of the ghosts living here are just victims of the Edinburgh renovation, people who did not have time to leave their homes in time.
THE SKY-TERRIER BOBBY IS FAMOUS FOR HIS LOYALTY: FOR FOURTEEN YEARS HE WERE GUARDING THE GRAVE OF HIS OWNER. NOW THE TOURISTS ARE RUBING THE NOSE OF THE STATUE FOR LUCK.
Another must-see point on the map for those who love to tickle their nerves is Maggie Dixon's pub, or "half-hanged Maggie". In 1723, she became pregnant with the son of the inn owner, and after giving birth, she left the baby on the banks of the Tweed River. For this, the girl was sentenced to death by hanging, but when her family took Maggie's cold body home, she was alive. The pub that bears her name is located on Grassmarket, where public executions were held in the old days.
By the way, there is a theory that this eerie story inspired J. K. Rowling, who wrote most of the Harry Potter books in Edinburgh. Like, the half-hanged Maggie is the prototype of Nearly Headless Nick - the ghost of Gryffindor. Moreover, Potter fans believe that the writer borrowed the names of some of her characters from the tombstones of the old cemetery of the Franciscan church Greyriar's Kirk. There is, of course, no reliable evidence of this, but there really is a grave of a certain Thomas Riddle - the full namesake of Wolande-Mort's grandfather and himself.
But the fact that it was Scotland that inspired Diana Gabaldon to create the Outlander series of novels, the main character of which was mistakenly transported to the 18th century, is not at all surprised - after all, when you wander the streets of Edinburgh, you feel that you did not get here by plane, and with the help of a time machine, it sometimes seems frighteningly true. There is no need to confront him. After all, such places on the planet can be counted on one hand.
ROYAL MILE IS CENTRAL STREET IN EDINBURGH AND ONE OF THE MAJOR ATTRACTIONS.
Our advice to you …
Hiking enthusiasts should climb to the top of Arthur's Throne - an extinct volcano, the ascent starts from Holyrood Palace. According to one of the legends, the legendary Camelot of King Arthur was located here.
Check the Edinburgh Castle site before your trip; sometimes it is open at night or has a light show.
From the national cuisine, it is worth trying haggis - chopped lamb giblets with onions, oatmeal, bacon, spices and salt. The description sounds scary, but the haggis tastes good.
For those wishing to have fun in the evening, it makes sense to go to George Street. There are pubs and bars for every taste.
Well, fans of J. K. Rowling can be advised to visit the Spoon cafe, where she worked on a book about a young wizard.
OLGA BRUNOVA
