The Bhaja Caves have been home to monks dating back to the early Buddhist era. At first, the mendicant brotherhood of refuseniks of worldly goods found shelter there for the rainy season (4 months). Then, over the centuries, they settled down, expanded and organized a monastery.
A complex of 22 caves (in some places it is said that there are 25) is located between the cities of Mumbai and Pune, not far from Lonavala. This structure is almost the oldest in India. It was founded in the era of early Buddhism, at the end of the 3rd - the beginning of the 2nd century BC.
In those days, there was a caravan route along which goods were transported to the port cities of the Arabian Sea. Well, the monks settled where it was convenient for them. Here's what's interesting. If you trace history, most of the hermit monks who preached asceticism (not only in Buddhism), nevertheless preferred to settle near settlements and trade routes. That's right, solitude is solitude, but you always want to eat.
Caves were cut in the upper part of the 120-meter cliff, near the village of BHAJA. The complex is conventionally divided into 3 parts, and all caves have their own serial numbers. The northern part includes 17 caves, the southern one is cave # 18 and a few smaller ones, and the third is a gallery with 14 stupas carved out of stone. The southern side ends with a waterfall. In addition, small vihara caves (temporary dwellings) are scattered all over the cliff.
Stone stairs, columns, stupas, stone benches, relief images, remains of drawings - this is how the Bhaja caves look like. For the untrained eye, it is similar to other cave monasteries in India, but there are differences, and there are many of them:
Promotional video:
- The sloping columns of the main hall (chaitya-grha). The slope of the columns was used in the construction of wooden buildings with an arched vault. There was no need to tilt the monolithic stone columns. Although, perhaps, the ancient builders acted out of habit, they got carried away a little.
- Teak arched rafters of the vaulted ceiling. They are already 2,200 years old, and they are perfectly preserved.
- Early Buddhist symbols on the columns. Not images of Buddha, but symbols, some of which are older than religion itself.
- Yoni altar in cave # 11. The female womb in Shaivism was always paired with the male reproductive organ. But then the latter disappeared somewhere, maybe it collapsed or someone stole it.
- An image of a tabla (double drum), proving that this musical instrument has been used in India for over 2000 years.
Stone stupas with carvings, almost erased inscriptions and holes for umbrellas. There are similar ones in many ancient Buddhist monasteries. The ashes and parts of the body (teeth, hair) of which "enlightened" elders are in the caves of Bhaja are unknown. But for Buddhists, it is a shrine that must be respected.
Each of the 22 (25?) Caves is a different time, different architecture, different symbols. It is interesting to visit and see, especially since there are few tourists and the entrance costs only 10 rupees.