Locals believe that this place in the lifeless Atacama Desert is indicated from above: it was here that a source of fresh water made its way out of the ground, and not the usual salt water, as for tens of kilometers around. However, there are already enough wonders in the town of San Pedro de Atacama, the most extreme in Chile.
There is no dry land
Why did people settle here at all? In San Pedro de Atacama, no more than 10 mm of precipitation falls per year. That is, there are practically none! Of agricultural plants, only chili pepper is popular: it requires minimal watering, but it is considered unique - due to the dryness of the climate, it becomes more acute.
In addition to the fact that a freshwater rivulet miraculously appears out of the ground, it just as suddenly goes into it just after a few kilometers. But this is enough: San Pedro is the only oasis in the driest place on the planet - in the Atacama Desert, which stretches in northern Chile on an area of 105 sq. km.
The capital of Santiago is more than 1000 km away, and the regional center of Antofagasta is 240 km away. However, despite its remoteness, over 100,000 tourists visit the small town with a population of 5,500 people annually. For comparison: if you count per capita, then in San Pedro de Atacama there are 12 times more of them than in St. Petersburg!
What attracts to itself a very hot and, moreover, high-mountainous (2,407 m above sea level) city? First, a story that does not begin with a period of conquest by the Spaniards. It was originally a staging post for the Inca Empire on the famous road to the Pacific Ocean. The oasis, in fact, provided the only opportunity to make a long stop and rest. For security purposes, in the 12th century, the powerful fortress of Pucara de Quitor was built on a nearby hill. Its dilapidated walls and watchtowers and storage facilities have survived to this day. Rumor has it that on quiet nights you can even hear the footsteps and whispers of the Incas who died in an unequal battle with the invading conquistadors …
By the way, the name San Pedro is in honor of one of these conquerors, Pedro de Valdivia. Although the official founding date is 1450, Valdivia was born almost half a century later. Only the old house where the Spaniard stayed and the perfectly preserved Catholic church built in 1557 remind of that colonial era. All the same under a thatched-clay roof and with the faces of saints, in many ways similar to the faces of local residents. The church was destroyed more than once by earthquakes, but each time it was restored, considering this place sacred: it was here that the first divine service in the vast expanses of the Atacama took place in the presence of all the Indian tribes who arrived at it.
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9000 years ago
Locals traditionally believe that the souls of their ancestors help them to overcome natural and other disasters. Not modern Atacameños aborigines, but much more ancient tribes of Chinchorro Indians. Initially they were nomads, but then they settled down and became famous for being the first in the world to use the ritual mummification of the dead. The oldest of the found chinchorro mummies is more than 9000 years old, but the much more famous Egyptian is about 4000. Again, if in Egypt only pharaohs and privileged dignitaries were embalmed, then among the Indians - all the dead, including newborns. Surprisingly, such a venerable age of chinchorro mummies had almost no effect on their safety - the dry climate of the Atacama helped. Moreover, the earth makes it easier for archaeologists to search: every now and then it brings mummies to the surface - over 2000 of them have already been found.
One of the most ancient mummies was found near San Pedro de Atacama and is kept in the Archaeological Museum. Gustavo Le Page: It is named after a Belgian Jesuit monk who lived here from 1955-1980. It was thanks to his efforts that a building appeared next to the church, where the richest collection of ethnographic exhibits was collected. After the death of Le Page, the Chinchorro mummy was presented for a while in the exhibition hall to attract tourists, but, on the contrary, things went worse. The outraged residents demanded that it be removed to the storage, so as not to disturb the spirit of the ancestors. And so they did. However, even without the famous mummy of 380,000 artifacts, there was something to choose from for the exhibition.
The microbe won't survive
Continuing the mystical theme, one cannot fail to mention the Valley of Death. It is quite possible to reach it from San Pedro de Atacama even on foot or by bike - only 4 km. Why such a gloomy name? Initially, because not a single daredevil who tried to get over it came back. Later, scientists have already found out that in Death Valley there is not only living organisms, even microbes! This is an eerie beauty that bewitches with colors, especially at sunset. Here strange sounds are heard, supposedly dead pilgrims are asking for help. True, later researchers found a scientific explanation for this phenomenon - this is how salt crystallizes with a temperature drop.
El Ta Tio geothermal valley located near San Pedro de Atacama is also associated with the spirits of the ancestors. It is no coincidence that the name is translated from the language of the Atacamens as “crying grandfather”. The third in the world after Yellowstone National Park in the USA and the Valley of Geysers in Russia in Kamchatka, it includes about 80 hot springs. This is again the highest mountain source of geothermal waters - 4300 m above sea level. It is believed that while the "Crying Grandfather" sheds his tears through the geysers, the life of the Atacamens will continue and they will not be in trouble. How can we not recall the Onkilons from the science fiction story "Sannikov Land" by Vladimir Obruchev!
Twin Moon and Mars
In San Pedro de Atacama, the centuries-old history has a surprising resemblance to modernity - space exploration. The very immense Universe, which was worshiped by ancient people and which continues to storm in the XXI century, what are we talking about?
16 km from the city is the Moon Valley 14 km long. Where does this name come from? The resemblance of the Moon Valley to the landscape of the nearest luminary is almost like that of twin brothers. On this once seabed, the space between the two ridges, under the influence of the winds, is intricately decorated with sand dunes, salt fields and low cliffs. Is that the color of all this silent and uninhabited splendor of a reddish hue, then associations with Mars involuntarily come. But at dusk or at night in the light of the month, it neither gives nor takes the surface of the moon!
Locals claim that this particular corner of the Atacama served as a training ground for American astronauts who landed on the moon. In any case, when they saw pictures from the Apollo 11 spacecraft in San Pedro in July 1969, they were surprised at the resemblance to their native valley.
16 km from the city is the Moon Valley 14 km long. The resemblance of the Moon Valley to the landscape of the nearest luminary is almost like that of twin brothers.
Chinchorro were the first in the world to use the ritual mummification of the dead. The oldest found Chinchorro mummy is over 9,000 years old.
Not a cow, but a dog
If in India a cow is revered as a sacred animal, then in San Pedro de Atacama a dog is honored. Wits even call her San-Perro-de-Atacama, which translates from Spanish as "the holy dog of the desert." There are a little less faithful friends of a person in a 5,000-city town than residents, but almost every dog has a name. Dogs do not starve at all: they generously share food and even more valuable drinking water with them. Tourists are advised not to be afraid: animals do not bother anyone, they are used to numerous visitors, and it is a sin to complain about such a dog's life …
Later, NASA tested the Spirit and Opportunity rovers here: both temperature and relief are related to the Red Planet.
… Visitors are surprised that after sunset in San Pedro de Atacama they are not allowed to turn on the electricity - the town is plunged into twilight. For the sake of savings? Not. In order for numerous tourists to admire the amazing night sky with ideal visibility (some hotels even acquired their own telescopes). Seeing such an impressive beauty, people begin to perceive the world in a completely different way. After such a date with the vast Universe, they want to live more fully, create and enjoy every day. Local residents generally think that they are lucky: they are constantly recharged with energy from space. Maybe this is really so?